Zennor: “The saint’s earth or holy land”, Glossary of Cornish Names, (1871).
This little pocket of the far west has attracted its fair share of devotees over the years. D. H. Lawrence was one of the writers and artists to fall under its spell: “At Zennor one sees infinite Atlantic, all peacock-mingled colours, and the gorse is sunshine itself. Zennor is a most beautiful place: a tiny granite village nestling under high shaggy moor-hills and a big sweep of lovely sea beyond, such a lovely sea, lovelier even than the Mediterranean… It is the best place I have been in, I think” – D. H. Lawrence, 1916.
Discover Zennor and far west Cornwall for yourself…
“Heathery tors descend from over six hundred feet to a valley where the church town stands, then rise again three hundred feet to jagged granite cliffs. It is hard to say which are the finest and most awe inspiring bits of coast – the narrow gorge of The Horse’s Back on Zennor Head, Porthglaze Pinnacles or Trereen Dinas on Gurnards Head – to me the finest is Zennor Head itself, above the church town with its view inland over granite tors.” – artist John Piper, Cornwall: a Shell Guide by John Betjeman, (1964).
Particularly intrepid souls can join veteran climbers on the soaring granite rock faces at Bosigran, a few miles along the coast from The Tinners.
Find your own favourite stretch of coast path: https://www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk
Mines and megaliths
“All along the higher ground as though they wanted to be away from the rough coast itself, early man built dwelling places, temples and tombs. They look like the work of a race of Giants.” – John Piper, Cornwall: a Shell Guide by John Betjeman, (1964).
Megalithic burial chambers. Ancient standing stones. Holy wells. Mine stacks and engine houses. From ancient monuments to remnants of Cornwall’s more recent tin mining history, the past is never far away.
Geevor Tin Mine: http://www.geevor.com
Cornish Mining World Heritage: http://www.cornish-mining.org.uk/delving-deeper/first-discoveries/
No trip to Zennor is complete without a visit to the mermaid… “Here everybody comes to church, up this path lined with stones as old as Roman Britain, for none leaves Zennor without looking for the mermaid.” –The King’s England: Cornwall, England’s Farthest South, (1937)
Dig a little deeper and you’ll discover almost every rock, hill and mine has a tale to tell of giants, knockers, spriggans, piskies, and a whole host of colourful characters from Cornwall’s rich folklore tradition. Stories run deep in the soil here. Seek out the giant Cormoran’s heart at St Michael’s Mount. Or marvel at the vision of Rowena Cade, a local legend in her own right, who carved the jaw-dropping Minack Theatre out of the cliffs at Porthcurno.
St Michael’s Mount: http://www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk
Minack Theatre: https://www.minack.com
It’s easy to see why surfers, families, sun-worshippers and storm-watchers have long been drawn to the Cornish coast… “The colours change swiftly with the day. The sea turns from peacock blue to emerald as it reaches the white sand in the little coves at low tide. A rough sea can send spray a hundred feet into the air from a blowhole below Zennor Head. On a warm summer night the moonlight gleaming on granite and sea full of phosphorus are not to be forgotten.” – John Piper, Cornwall: a Shell Guide by John Betjeman, (1964).
From live music and food and drink to local festivals, there’s always something going on – keep an eye on The Tinners social media for the latest happenings in our neck of the woods.